This summer marked the conclusion of my first dress pattern dress - my wedding dress.
The dress pattern |
It was the most wonderful feeling walking around in a beautiful 50s dress that I'd made myself and for the fraction of the price of a typical wedding dress.
Christmas 2011 mum bought me a sewing machine. To make the most of my new machine, I new I needed to start with a project. At that time no other friends had sewing machines so I needed a simple project that I could do by myself. A project with straight lines seemed to be the answer and so cushions were my first creations cushions-for-little-ones. Following on from those first few cushions a few months later we moved to our new home and there were no curtains and so I made curtains for a 3 metre wide window by 2 metres length with lining. Not an easy second project but mum gave me instructions - I would like to add that 100% machine work was done by me! In the autumn I started a sewing class where the project was a tote bag. I am still very proud of that tote bag with appliqué. And then... I was at the point where I wanted to make my clothes.
You see I'm an odd shape, like so many of us are, who really fits into a single size that the shops want to fit us into anyway? For me I have very narrow shoulders, a narrow back, nipped in waist and large-ish hips. I'm an hour glass. So my back and shoulders are probably about an 8, my waist a 10 and my hips a 12. Historically this wouldn't be a problem and the hourglass shape certainly has a leaning towards those classic outfits of the 50s. Thus explaining my love of vintage 40s and 50s dress styles!
Front of the toile |
Back of the toile |
We started work on the dress in February - the wedding date was 20th July. No pressure!
Sewing Team |
Janet and Dawn taught me to cut the pattern correctly along the grain, to mark up the fabric and I made a toile with their tutoring. A toile is a practice dress usually made out of calico or a cheap fabric to help with the fitting. By late April I completed the toile and then Janet and Dawn checked the fitting. This involved lots of pins - some of which got me! Maybe it was on purpose!!
We used the toile to redo the pattern. Janet was amazing at this. I think she had major head aches with all the maths! She amended the original pattern so it fitted me perfectly. You have to decide where the stitch line should be, but once you are happy you need to add 1.5cm or 5/8" for seam allowance. Dawn made these new pattern pieces with greaseproof paper sellotaped together (sellotape doesn't stick to it very well) but this served the purpose wonderfully.
I then got to work on the lining and then the outer dress material. The lining was from the Birmingham Rag Market and the outer dress material was in duchess satin from Barry's Fabric.
Meanwhile Dawn and Janet worked on the petticoat together. This was made with a soft satin lining, very stiff netting with ribbon trim at the base. The hem measured 8 metres all the way around so there was a lot of fabric. It looked like a very challenging piece to make.
The pressure to complete the dress in the last month before the wedding was tremendous. At the time I was also organising the wedding single handed in the last month because Matt was working in Germany. I didn't have much warning of this and the church hadn't been paid for, venue menus hadn't been agreed, etc. There was a lot of running around as well as full weekends of dress making.
It was a really challenging thing to do but the sense of achievement to wear my own dress was huge. I would have had to pay a great deal of money to get a dress that fitted me so perfectly and instead I paid £100 in materials and the other big cost was our time and energies.
Janet and Dawn didn't just teach me how to follow a dress pattern, they were there to bounce ideas off and ears to my tales of the stresses and strains of planning a wedding. They gave me a lot - not just time, Janet's husband Graham making us cups of coffee, baked potatoes, knowledge but tremendous support in so many ways.
If you are considering making a dress and organising a wedding all in 6 months, consider it carefully. It was intensive and very tiring. You need some dress making friends to work with too ;)
After we'd spent six months together working on the dress, we didn't want to stop sewing together so we are continuing to meet. We meet on Fridays in Janet's sewing room. We've got a new member of the sewing team too, Cynthia. We're all working on our own projects now. Dawn's making a variety of clothes for her niece, Cynthia's making a top for her grand daughter, Janet's making a coat and me? Well I'm making my next dress. A 1940s tea dress - I want to put all that new knowledge to good use and also expand my wardrobe with another classic!
Your wedding dress is so beautiful! Well done on making it! Are you aware I'm the daughter of Gill and Ken Burnley who were at your wedding? It's a small world!
ReplyDeleteHelen x
Yes I am ;) second cousins and I think we've all inherited a little something from our grandparents. I'll never forget Uncle Norman's attic workshop. Probably how we've both got the crafting bug. I really love your blog - I'm a regular reader ;) you're a much more advanced crocheter than me!
DeleteIndeed, I drive past somewhat regularly and always think about it! I think I must have been crocheting on and off for a couple of years now, I tend to throw myself in the deep end! I look forward to reading more of your posts :)
DeleteHelen x
It is absolutely stunning. I had my wedding dress made for me, in 2010 I couldn't find a 1950s dress anywhere so I found a local dressmaker. Not long after the wedding they were everywhere! Yours is so gorgeous, the way it clings to you in all the right places and the elegant simplicity. Beautiful x
ReplyDeleteEmma, thanks for your very kind comments.
ReplyDeleteWith the fitting of the dress, we took the dress pattern and Janet took very careful measurements to amend the pattern, Dawn drew out the new patterns on tracing paper. The back and shoulders on the pattern was a lot bigger than my back so we adjusted the pattern quite considerably which probably shows in the fit. We also added some bones in the front and the back to hold the shape in the bodice. It was really useful doing the toile first as we used it when creating the new pattern for the proper dress.
I think these 50s dresses are so elegant, although I think it will take me a while before I attempt a second one!
Another bonus to a 50s wedding dress is you can wear them to formal do's in the summer - just not other people's weddings!